The legacy of Anna Wintour and candidates for Vogue editor

Anna Wintour steps down as Vogue’s top editor after years of shaping the fashion landscape

When Anna Wintour unveiled her first issue of the American Vogue towards the end of 1988, the printer’s response was unexpected: «Was a mistake made?» The cover featured model Michaela Bercu dressed in a Christian Lacroix jacket with jeans, which was a shift from the carefully arranged, polished images that had defined the magazine for so long. The picture was laid-back, snapped outdoors, and captured a sense of spontaneity that heralded a new chapter for Vogue.

The occurrence established the groundwork for Wintour’s perspective, which would transform more than just the magazine, altering the entire fashion realm. She infused the publication with a touch of realism and approachability, moving away from its former roots in sheer luxury. By opting to showcase a model clad in denim, even though it happened by chance due to a wardrobe error, initiated a societal transformation. It indicated that fashion could be worn in everyday life, not solely during fashion shows.

After establishing her reputation at British Vogue, Wintour was recruited to rejuvenate the American version, and for 37 years, she successfully accomplished that task. With her direction, the magazine confidently navigated through the supermodel epoch, the emergence of grunge, the predominance of celebrity culture, and the shift toward prioritizing digital storytelling. During this period, Wintour consistently demonstrated a keen understanding of the broader cultural implications of fashion and its potential to impact more than just attire.

This week, Wintour announced she would be stepping down as editor-in-chief of Vogue, marking the end of one of the most influential editorial tenures in fashion history. While she will continue in her role as chief content officer at Condé Nast—a position she has held since 2020—her departure from the magazine’s editorial helm closes a significant chapter.

Wintour’s impact with Vogue extends far beyond the boundaries of its magazine. She transformed the norms of fashion covers, significantly including celebrities in a space that was previously reserved solely for models. In her first year, she placed Madonna on the cover—an unanticipated choice that launched a new mix of fashion and popular culture. This began a change that eventually embraced reality TV stars, political figures, and cultural icons appearing on the magazine’s covers.

During her tenure at Vogue, Wintour consistently tuned into public interests, aligning the magazine’s tone with larger changes in media and consumer habits. Her editorial choices frequently impacted the real world. For example, she was one of the pioneers in introducing personalities such as Kim Kardashian and Ivanka Trump to the mainstream fashion dialogue, providing them a stage that greatly increased their prominence.

This editorial power wasn’t without criticism. Wintour’s decisions sometimes sparked backlash, such as the controversial 2008 cover featuring LeBron James and Gisele Bündchen, which prompted debate over racial imagery and representation. Yet, such moments only further cemented the reality that Wintour had become a central figure in the dialogue around fashion and power.

Her singular sense of style, marked by her signature bob hairstyle and renowned sunglasses, became closely tied to her professional persona. Wintour’s presence at the Met Gala, the much-desired acclaim of the September issue, along with various references to her likeness in pop culture (such as the fictional Miranda Priestly in The Devil Wears Prada) solidified her standing as a cultural icon.

Despite the air of mystique surrounding her public persona, Wintour often downplayed the attention on her image. She expressed more interest in creativity and the direction of the publications she led, rather than in how she was perceived personally. That said, her influence was inescapable, and she often leaned into it with self-awareness, attending events like The Devil Wears Prada musical gala, embracing the comparisons without directly confirming them.

Throughout her career, Wintour managed to hold authority in an industry known for volatility. Her ability to remain relevant through seismic shifts in media—from glossy pages to digital platforms—speaks to her adaptability and strategic vision. She recognized early on the importance of online presence, even as traditional print struggled to maintain its audience. Though some critics pointed to an overemphasis on celebrity content in the digital age, Wintour defended the choices as necessary to maintain cultural relevance.

Past coworkers and those knowledgeable in the fashion industry propose that Wintour’s choice to reduce her role was probably made independently. Though she remains the chief content officer, she continues to influence Vogue and other prominent Condé Nast publications, and will supposedly have input in selecting who follows in her footsteps. Anticipation regarding this decision is already rising.

Potential candidates include Eva Chen, director of fashion partnerships at Instagram, who brings a wealth of digital experience to the table—a crucial asset in today’s media landscape. Also frequently mentioned is Chioma Nnadi, currently overseeing editorial content at British Vogue, and widely viewed as one of Wintour’s protégés. Her rise within the organization has been watched closely, and she represents a potential continuation of Wintour’s legacy with a new generational lens.

Other people mentioned include Amy Astley, who used to be in charge of Teen Vogue and currently leads Architectural Digest, as well as senior editors like Chloe Schama and Chloe Malle. Furthermore, Wintour’s daughter, Bee Shaffer Carrozzini, involved in film production within the fashion realm, has also been part of the discussions—though such forecasts are entirely conjectural.

As Wintour moves on from the publication she helped transform into an international leader, people in the industry are now weighing her impact. The fashion world has evolved significantly during her time—not just in terms of style, but also regarding its role in cultural and political discussions. Topics such as sustainability, fair labor practices, and digital inclusion have turned fashion from a specialized interest into a wider dialogue about identity, principles, and societal evolution.

Wintour, frequently regarded as a key figure in fashion’s exclusive community, played a role in making it more accessible—while still upholding the high standards of taste and creativity that Vogue is renowned for. Her talent for combining exclusivity with broad appeal, and luxury fashion with everyday significance, is likely her most enduring achievement.

In contemplating what’s ahead, the challenge for the successor will be to continue navigating a dynamic landscape. Balancing the commercial needs of modern media with the newly linked cultural responsibilities in fashion won’t be easy. Yet, Wintour has already played a role in forging this direction.

In several ways, her presence at the nuptials of Jeff Bezos and Lauren Sánchez earlier this year underscored her unique cultural influence. By showcasing Sánchez on the front page in 2023, Wintour was more than a participant at the event—she had helped shape the narrative around it.

Considering all her achievements in the publishing industry, Wintour’s greatest influence might be how she expanded the importance of fashion beyond its traditional boundaries. She didn’t just observe trends—she molded them, anticipated them, and, in many cases, created them.

As Anna Wintour steps down from her position as editor-in-chief, Vogue and the larger fashion industry find themselves in a phase of contemplation and change. Her exit signifies more than just the closure of an era—it’s an opportunity to ponder the future direction for a magazine and an industry that she significantly shaped.